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Laos, a country that is typically described as poor, underdeveloped, isolated and dependent, has ambitious plans for its rail development. At present, there is only 3.5 kilometers of rail track across the Mekong River, connecting the country to Thailand. The Laos government aims to build on that by creating a network of routes that would eventually link it to neighboring China, Vietnam and Cambodia. Though plans are currently up in the air, the rail project is touted as a development key that would transform the country from landlocked to land linked, reduce the poverty situation, and encourage regional integration with other ASEAN countries.
In 2010 I went to Laos and traveled along the proposed railway route, photographing along the way and interviewed various people. What started as a simple inquiry about what the country’s railway plan very quickly turned into an engaging experience as I encountered economists, sociologists, politicians and the locals. Through their perspectives, I get a sense of the interwoven complexities of this development. Instead of finding answers, I walked away with a myriad of questions.
The stakes involved in building this railway network are high. A complex series of changes – social, economic and ecological – would inevitably result. While possibly producing economic benefits, the railway project will at the same time cause groups of people to experience new poverty. As evidenced by past infrastructure development, the process involves relocation of villages, breaking up of existing communities, and destruction of agricultural land and forests – the very actions that undermine sustainable livelihoods and food security. Not only that, the railway network is likely to exacerbate existing problems of migration, illegal trade and smuggling.
Unlocking Laos, a project in progress, aims to chart the major forces of change that this railway plan will trigger. I am particularly concerned about the welfare of the communities who will be directly affected – mostly rural villagers who depend on their land for livelihood, and whom have no control over the turn of events. My project seeks to hint at the extent and depth of the change that is coming, and whatever one may feel about the destination, to draw attention to the human impact that such upheavals are likely to have.
Ore Huiying is a documentary photographer based between London and Singapore. Follow her on Twitter @ore_huiying and @UnlockingLaos.
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Obviously there are pros and cons to this. The good things are Laos will prosper from trade and tourism from China and the neighboring Greater Mekong (GMS) countries. On the negative side, the country’s culture and lifestyle may suffer. The landscape will be changed forever.
At present, Laos is still a country of pristine natural attraction where many travelers go to wow her natural beauty and to see the people’s simply way of living as the government promote the country with a slogan “Simply Beautiful”.
Jaffee Yee, Editor-in-Chief, Asean Mekong Travel magazine
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I can only imagine that the few Laos who so prosper from the sale of their country will be the usual class of compradors who sell out their country and countrymen.
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I don’t think that’s exactly true. As far as tourism is concerned, I’m fully aware that many of my friends and colleagues in Laos (Lao nationals and foreign consultants) are working hard to make sure that tourist dollars are trickling down to the grassroot communities. Asian Development Bank’s projects are all for sustainable tourism and pro-poor. And I think LNTA is doing a good job and is fully aware of the negative impacts tourism will bring.
Jaffee Yee
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Laos continues to be the forgotten country of SEA and Beijing knows well that China is unchallenged here so the the Kunming comrades are allowed to “develop”, contract and play (exploit) as they please until further notice to assure Chinese domination.
On multiple trips in the last 10years and particularly in the past year, I was surprised to learn, however, how much resentment against Chinese investment and Chinese tourists are growing among Laotians. The white devil is now more welcome than the northern horde…
Jaffee: Agree that there is a lot of good will, work and enthusiasm from individuals who love the country & culture and aim to preserve the natural habitat. There are good grassroots activities – almost all started and nurtured by idealistic “Maksidaa” and Japanese individuals. But the Lao government and its local administrators are so inept/weak/clueless and corrupt that, once money enters a scene, each and any of these grassroots projects are wiped off the table if they interfere with “business” and “development”.
So I am afraid that JFL is correct in his assessment…
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Once i know is that We have been invase by Chinese/ what do you think where are Lao people original from ? all these TAI group ? Since thousand of year Lao and Chinese have been living to gether/ Sometime I just believe that the world is too small and the thinking of people are too westernise
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There is no doubt that te Chinese are economically annexing Laos to their own purposes and they are being readily aided in this by certain sectors of Laos society who benefit in large measure personally. There are areas in Northern Laos now that for all intents and purposes are Chinese. Contractors, labourers and suppliers on all Chinese development projects are Chinese, very little direct benefit accumulates to ordinary Lao people as this infrastructure goes in. With that work force and the access this infrastructure provides, Chinese merchants and entrepreneurs follow. The Lo are no match for their sharp practices and avaricious bent, they are being gobbled up wholesale. There is growing resentment among Lao people about this and the kind of grumbling that can be heard now has not been common in the past in this tightly controlled authoritarian state. There is a rumour about that the reason that the Chinese proposal for developing a railway from north to south has stalled because of the Chinese insistence that 10km either side be ceded to China as Chinese territory. Who knows the truth but the fact that the rumour has currency indicates clearly that the ordinary Lao have come to understand the truth Chinese intentions for their country. The economic benefits for the few that will accrue from Chinese involvement in Laos will be reaped by that few at a tragic cost to environment culture and quality of life. Unfortunately while ever certain powerful interests that hold sway collude with this process the demise of this beautiful country is absolutely certain.
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I live in Laos. I have to agree with Shan 1,000%. I am American by nationality but ethnically Laos….I lived in the US since 4 years of age. I am now 36. I have 15 years of professional work experience with Fortune 500 companies. I have an MBA. Now that you know a little about my background….I have lived in Laos for the past 2.5 years with my very Anglo husband and 3 children. Half the country is related to me …. even the government officials.
And I still agree with Shan.
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I can only see this resulting in a greater exploitation of Laos – particularly in terms of its natural resources (and resource exploitation primarily impacts the poor) and will accelerate the already growing disparities in wealth within the country. LDCs *always* give more than they receive as they become integrated more thoroughly into the global market economy, although the well-connected elites will obviously benefit. I understand I’m stating the obvious here.
In a sense it’s similar to elite collaboration with occupying forces (Nazi occupied France comes to mind) – the collaborators will continue to benefit financially while the occupiers, who have few reasons to ensure the welfare of a country’s population and environment, will ‘suck the marrow from the bone’ so to speak. I consider this to be a ‘realist’ perspective based on what we have seen occur historically in similar scenarios. I’m sure Laos will also see an acceleration in Han Chinese immigration into the country.
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